I’ve always been a “Top 10″ kind of guy.  Like Jack Black in High Fidelity, I’ve spent countless hours devising lists of favorite films, music, guitars . . . and of course watches.  Today, I found myself staring at all of the incredible timepieces we have in stock and was inspired to put together a quick list of my top 10 favorite pieces in store.  Obviously, the price-range here is a little wide, so I’ve decided not to rank the models in a particular order of favor, rather, they are listed according to retail pricing.

As this is a list of my own personal favorites, you may see some things included that are surprising, but hopefully my comments will explain clearly why I’ve chosen the models that appear here.  Let’s get started:

#10 – Luminox Recon Navigation Specialist

This watch incorporates what I consider to be the best of Luminox’s feature options along with an incredible price.  To start, like all Luminox pieces, the Nav Spc model has a stunning tritium layout.  This model is the only piece in the current Luminox line which has a GMT second time zone function.  The case is made of carbon reinforced polymer for an extremely comfortable light weight and unlike most of their polymer case models, this design has a sapphire crystal for enhanced scratch resistance – very cool!  The compass will divide opinion, but fortunately, it slides right off the strap, so if you don’t like it, just take it off.  Finally, the strap features measurement marks which can be surprisingly handy.  All of this for a retail of $450!

#9 – Citizen Perpetual Chrono A-T

When it comes to functionality, Citizen is an absolute beast and the Perpetual Chrono A-T has more features than you can shake a stick at.  The Eco-Drive feature alone is enough reason to purchase this piece, but it’s just the tip of the iceberg.  This model is a perpetual calendar and incorporates an alarm, a chronograph and multiple timezones.  This model also has Citizen’s radio control function which means that the watch is regularly updated by an atomic clock for the most accurate timing in the world.  Finally, the construction materials are top shelf with either solid stainless steel or titanium as options for the case and bracelet.  Top this off with a scratch resistant sapphire crystal and you’ve got a truly incredible watch.  Retail prices range from $575 to $699 depending upon the case material.

#8 – Alpina Startimer Classic Automatic

Alpina are swiftly becoming the best value in the pilot’s watch sector of luxury timepieces.  Though the bulk of their pilot’s designs feature the classic black dial common to vintage pilot watches, I’m particularly fond of these silver dial “Classic” models.  The rose gold hands and applied Arabic numerals really pop off the silver dial and create added dimension on an elegantly simple face.  The crown design is substantial and sleek looking for ease of use and a handsome aesthetic.  Pack in an automatic movement, a sapphire crystal face and case back, then top off with a gorgeous leather strap and deployment buckle – for $995, you’ve got one of the best value’s in the entire industry.

#7 – Luminox Modern Mariner Automatic

Luminox has long been known for their rugged and light weight carbon reinforced polymer watches which combine comfort with durability.  However, in recent years, the brand has been employing 316L steel for cases and bracelets which adds another dimension to their long-term functionality.  The Modern Mariner features some of the finest finish detailing I’ve ever seen on a steel watch regardless of price point.  The remaining appointmenets are all in line with what you’d expect to see from brands like Omega and Tag Heuer – sapphire crystal face and backing, automatic movement and a beautifully functioning clasp.  The jet black dial is enhanced by angled applied stick markers which really pop.  This may be the best looking Luminox design yet and it’s a model that can go head to head with product costing 2 – 3 times its retail price of $1,200.

#6 – Frederique Constant Classics Manufacture

When it comes to classic elegant Swiss style, Frederique Constant is producing some of the most exciting product in the industry.  On top of their downright ridiculous pricing (ridiculously affordable that is), the finesse of their design aesthetic is extraordinary.  The Classics Manufacture is the latest evolution of their most popular men’s collection and it ups the ante on this type of design significantly by incorporating an in-house designed and manufactured automatic movement.  The handsome rose gold plated steel case measures 43 millimeters which gives the watch a modern classical appearance that doesn’t look diminutive in the way that other retro designs can.  The included deployment buckle ensures that you’ll get many years worth of wear out of the lovely crococalf strap.  At $2,550, you’ll be hard pressed to find a competitive watch with a run-of-the-mill ETA movement and you can basically forget finding anything else in this range which features an in-house movement!

#5 – Ball Engineer Master II Officer

This model has long been a favorite of mine from the Ball collection.  Unlike the majority of Ball’s offerings, the Engineer Master II Officer watch is a very retro manual wind watch which takes nearly all of it’s inspiration from Ball’s pocket watch designs of yore.  The case measures 46 millimeters with a dial design that is bold and graphic.  The layout is a virtual recreation of an original pocket watch dial from Ball’s back catalog, which has been updated with a stunning color scheme and tritium tubes for illumination.  The parchment colored dial is perfectly accented by burnt orange Arabic numerals and the seconds sub dial provides just the right amount of complication for a relatively straight forward timekeeper.  To top off the vintage appeal, Ball incorporated a “Hunter” case back which is hinged and opens by a button latch to reveal a sapphire crystal showing off the manual wind movement.  This model has sadly been discontinued, so if you like what you see, get in touch with us ASAP to secure one of the two we have left in stock!  Retail is a very reasonable $2,899

#4 – Frederique Constant Worldtime Manufacture

Worldtime designs seem to be the flavor of the day and nearly every brand that we carry has introduced very exciting new worldtime designs in the past year.  It’s tough to pick a favorite, but for me, the Frederique Constant Worldtime Manufature stands out for a variety of reasons.  The obvious advantage that this piece has over it’s very tight competition is that unlike the offerings from most manufacturers, Frederique Constant has developed their own in-house worldtime movement to power this design. This provides beau-coup brownie points for Frederique Constant in the prestige realm.  However, even if this design were using an off-the-shelf movement, it would still be my choice for best worldtime design simply based on it’s aesthetic.  The subtle world map background is a tastefully unique detail and the overall layout of the dial is functional and beautiful.  Top this off with a blue Alligator strap and you’ve got one of the most distinctive worldtime watch designs available.  At $3,825, one has to wonder at the magic being performed in Frederique Constant’s Geneva factory – incredible!

#3 – Bremont SOLO Silver Dial

Bremont may just be the most exciting brand in the industry right now.   With a boutique manufacture based in Henley-on-Thames, this British operation has managed to develop a collection which is instantly recognizable, incomparably handsome and absolutely timeless.  I’m constantly amazed at Bremont’s ability to design watches which are so simple yet so engaging.  Obviously, this is a matter of personal taste, but for my part, I can’t think of a better looking collection.  The SOLO is Bremont’s entry-level offering, but make no mistake, this is a truly feature packed watch which will match or exceed the quality standards of the industry’s top brands.  Like all models from Bremont, the SOLO features the brand’s patented Trip-Tick case design which merges streamlined aesthetics and ergonomics with cutting edge technology.  Everything about the dial design exudes class from the subtle mixture of Arabic numerals and stick markers to the slope of the inner bezel and the shape of the hands.  There is a magic in the proportions, colors and shapes which make up this watch that defies it’s relative simplicity.  This is a watch that will last beyond a lifetime and will look as good decades from now as it does today.  $4,250 may sound a bit pricey as you’ve read over this list, but keep in mind that this watch is COSC certified and features a plethora of in-house technology.  Compared to competition from IWC, Breitling, Rolex and others, it’s a very good value.

#2 – Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon NEDU

Ball’s Engineer Hydrocarbon watch collection is one of the most robust, durable and feature packed line-ups available from any brand in the industry.  Ball is known for their technology fanaticism (I mean that in the best way possible), and the Hydrocarbon watches boast a wide range of heavy duty features such as super thick sapphire crystals, anti-shock systems, anti-magentism  systems, an in-house designed crown protection system and an in-house designed titanium and steel bracelet which is an abosolute thing of beauty.  In general, I’m not a fan of big thick watches, mainly because I’ve never found them to be comfortable and often the look is more comical than classy to me.  Though the NEDU is a substantial timepiece, its 42mm case diameter falls well shy of the ridiculous range found on product from brands like Breitling, IWC and Panerai.  The heft of Ball’s Hydrocarbon series is born out of function rather than trendy style and the NEDU does have a case thickness of 17.3 millimeters.  This thickness is necessitated by the inclusion of the aforementioned anti-shock system, anti-magnetism system and 5mm thick sapphire crystal.  Designed as a serious dive watch, the NEDU has a depth rating of 600 meters (2,000 feet) and has Ball’s patented helium release system.  The case is made up of titanium which gives the watch a deceptively light weight and an easy feel on the wrist.  Of course, Ball is known for their tritium illumination and the display on the NEDU is glorious.  Oversized tubes ensure easy readability in any lighting condition.  Add in chronometer certification, a very readable chronograph and a handsome sport design for $4,399 and you’ve got one of the industry’s most incredible dive watches.

#1 – Bremont S2000 Supermarine

I’ve already reviewed what makes Bremont such an exciting watch brand in my commentary about the SOLO silver dial above, so I won’t bother to repeat myself except to say that once again, this watch represents a combination of ergonomics, aesthetics, quality components and style that combine to make a transcendent watch design.  The newly released S2000 is unique in Bremont’s line for it’s 45 millimeter case size which is just slightly more substantial than their 43 millimeter standard.  In terms of hard core features, this watch incorporates the anti-shock system that Bremont developed for their Martin Baker range, along with the soft iron anti-magnetic Faraday cage which is also found on the MB watches.  With an impressive 2000 meters of water resistance, this is one of the more extreme diving watch designs on the market.  The rubber strap flows organically from the angled lugs and secures this bold design on the wrist with an uncompromising level of comfort.  As with the SOLO, every tiny element of the design is expertly executed.  From the applied luminescent dot and stick markers to the subtle recessed pin striping center section and the little pops of red color which accent the black dial, this is a classy and timeless watch design.  At $5,900, this is the most expensive watch on my list, but the S2000 Supermarine is a watch for the man who isn’t interested in making compromises.  Also, keep in mind that the majority of competitive dive designs from brands like IWC, Omega and Rolex will be in avsimilar or even higher price range.  For my money, I’d take the Bremont over any other not only for the features offered, but for the sheer beauty of the design.

The passion with which Europe’s most prestigious watch houses cling to outmoded technology is infamous and it’s a double-edged sword. On the one hand, the preservation of old school craftsmanship and mechanics allows these creations to transcend pure functionality and merge with artistry. The flip side of this production technique however, is a severe limitation on the advancement of timepiece functionality.

Dealing with watch buyers on a daily basis has really brought into focus for me just how conflicted both the industry and the buying public are about watches in general. On the one hand, our cell-phones and other mobile devices tell us the date and time much more accurately than most timepieces, eliminating the need to compensate for the inherent issues of watch technology (time loss/gain, daylight savings, accounting for short months, leap years, etc). On the other hand, watches act as jewelry as well as timekeepers and most people who wear a watch do indeed use it to reference time. Clearly the desire for a functional timepiece is alive and well, but watch design has largely fallen behind with regards to actual timekeeping technology offered by gadgets like cell phones, tablets and computers. Sadly, the world of luxury watches is so intensely homogeneous with regards to technology that innovation inevitably has to come from outside the European industry.

Japan has a very strong watch industry and despite being majorly overshadowed by Switzerland in the luxury end of the market, Japanese brands are absolutely dominant in the arena of affordable timepieces. More importantly, Japanese technology has advanced well beyond the analog platform favored by European brands allowing their timepiece designs to catch up with the accuracy and convenience of modern electronic devices.

Citizen’s Eco-Drive platform changes the entire landscape of timepiece functionality allowing the wearer to effectively eliminate from their mind any concern of power supply. Eco-Drive watches are light powered and when working on a full charge, they can function for months on end without exposure to a light source. For most practical circumstances, this means that your watch will always run whether you’re wearing it on a daily basis or not and you will never need to drop it off at your local jeweler for a battery change.

Along with the Eco-Drive innovation, Citizen has been incorporating a wide range of exciting features into their watches including perpetual calendar functions (which compensate for short months and leap-years), radio controlled atomic timekeeping (which ensures that your watch is updated daily to the highest available accuracy), and the most user friendly world timing capabilities I’ve ever seen. Their newly released “Proximity” watch will even sync with your iPhone for call/email alerts, calendar event notification, etc. On top of these elements, many of the newer designs are being made with the same scratch-resistant sapphire crystal material used by luxury brands as well as top quality metals with very impressive finish detailing for a luxurious look and feel.

Every watch buyer has their own unique criteria when selecting a timepiece and there are plenty of watch enthusiasts who buy across all price-points and technologies. However, I’ve met countless so-called watch geeks, enthusiasts, collectors and snobs who won’t even consider looking at a non-mechanical watch design, which to me is a real shame. I find Citizen to be an extremely exciting brand which is offering incredible features (many of which are not available elsewhere) at no-brainer prices. They are able to leverage their substantial history and design experience to make watches which are not only supremely functional, but comfortable and quite good looking. If you’re any kind of watch buyer, I think you owe it to yourself to take a good look at what Citizen has to offer.

Bremont’s Trip-Tick case is a wonder of modern timepiece manufacture from a variety of standpoints, most importantly, the enhanced comfort level.  The newly released S2000 Supermarine watch is a perfect example of how truly special the Bremont watch line is in this regard.  With a 45mm case width and 17mm depth, this is a substantial timepiece and one which I had assumed simply would not be comfortable for me.  Well, the watch arrived this past week and I’ve found it to be quite the opposite!

Bremont pays attention to all of the minutiae involved with timepiece design, obsessing over the tiniest element until perfection is achieved.  This applies both to the aesthetics and ergonomics of their watches.  For example, the curvature of the lugs is simultaneously elegant and functional allowing the watch case to gently hug your wrist.  The included S2000 rubber strap slots perfectly into the case and continues the arc of the lugs holding the watch dead center on your wrist.  This in turn allows the watch to feel as if it’s an extension of your arm rather than being a weighty object sitting atop your wrist – brilliant!

The aesthetics of the S2000 are largely carried over from the black dial S500 design (which you can read more about here), with the most significant changes being in the added case size.  There are subtle red accents which combine with the white numerals and indexes for a slightly more modern look compared with the vintage looking S500.  The unique off-set crown with sloping protector is carried over and adds the perfect bit of quirk to what is surely one of the most handsome dive watch designs on the market.

The S2000 isn’t just a handsome looker either!  With a depth rating of 2000 meters, this watch is equipped to handle serious diving.  As with all Bremont watches, the case is made from specially treated steel making it supremely durable and scratch resistant.  Inside the case, the movement is protected by an anti-magnetic Faraday cage as well as the shock mount system developed for the Bremont MB (Martin Baker) range of watches.  Simply put, you can’t find a feature set like this in ANY of the competition even at double or triple the price.

So there you have it!  The S2000 is a serious deep-dive watch with all of the style and functionality you could hope for plus a surprisingly high level of comfort when strapped on.  I think this watch needs to be on the short list for anyone considering the purchase of a modern dive watch.

I find the Conductor case shape to be intriguing and oddly handsome, but the dial designs have always presented a challenge.  In particular, the tritium tube layout on previous Conductor models has frankly mystified me having an avant-garde style which is not the easiest to reference in dark light situations.  The new “Transcendent II” model (Reference #NM2068D-SAJ-WH)  features a completely redesigned dial which now has one of the best tritium layouts in the entire Ball line.  Blue tubes make up the numerals at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock with yellow sticks between and vibrant green bars on the hour and minute hands.  In an inspired stroke of design, the tubes are set into appliqué steel indices providing a very three-dimensional effect to the dial.

Along with the impressive new tritium display, the dial has a subtle circular pattern of recessed lines in the center ringed with small black seconds markers.  The cumulative effect of these design changes is an instantly attractive and very readable display which has a surprising amount of depth.  Another element which enhances this effect is the very uniquely curved and contoured sapphire crystal.  Having sold literally dozens of luxury watch lines, I can say with certainty that I’ve never seen such a unique crystal.

As you flip the case of the watch over, you find a pleasant surprise as the crystal’s curvature is mirrored on the case-back allowing the watch to subtly conform to the contour of your wrist.  While many non-round watch case designs end up with a compromised level of comfort, the new Conductor Transcendent II watch feels right at home on the wrist.  The Transcendent II model is a very smart addition for Ball and one which should open up the Conductor collection to a whole new set of potential buyers.

Bremont S500 Supermarine

Bremont is the latest addition to our roster of timepiece lines and I’m extremely excited to have them in store.  We chose to bring on the Bremont line for several important reasons including their extreme level of features, incredible value and the passion of Bremont’s founders, Nick & Giles English.  Above all else, what most impresses me about the Bremont watches is their stunningly elegant aesthetics.  After all, what’s the point of having a well crafted timepiece if it’s not something you enjoy looking at?

The brand is a vehicle for the English brothers to indulge their fascination for mechanical design and they have produced a line of watches which competes against Europe’s top manufacturers.  Upon first glance, the watches look simple and comfortable with very clean lines.  As you spend more time enjoying these little machines, the broader features combine with subtle nuances which blossom into truly captivating details.  While it’s true that aesthetics are largely subjective, Bremont’s designs touch on a purity of form which is undeniable. 

In particular, I’d like to highlight the S500 Supermarine model.  A cursory glance at this watch will tell a trained eye that this is a dive watch well rooted in classic established designs such as the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and the Rolex Submariner.  I have to admit that during my initial perusals of the Bremont collection, the S500 was not the first to jump out and grab my attention.  Perhaps it’s because the aviation style which ties together the rest of their offerings is so instantly attractive and elegant.  However, as I’ve spent more time with the Bremont watches, the Supermarine has emerged as a favorite model for me.

The typical hallmarks of a well designed dive watch are all present in the Supermarine including a helium escape valve, a unidirectional dive bezel, vibrant luminescence and a formidable water resistance rating of 500 meters.  The watch also incorporates exciting features specific to the Bremont line such as their specially treated stainless steel (7 times harder than your average Swiss watch brand uses), a patented rubberized anti-shock movement mount and a soft-iron anti-magnetic Faraday cage which protects the movement.  This is a substantial spec list especially when considering the retail price of $5,400.  While you may be able to find a nicely designed dive watch for less money, you will not find one with these features.

We’ve already discussed a plentitude of reasons for considering the S500 for your next purchase, but I want to return to the aesthetics of the watch.  It’s hard to isolate just what makes the Supermarine such an attractive design, but the look is undeniable.  I would even be willing to go on record stating that Bremont has made what I consider to be the definitive dive watch – for my taste anyway.  Every element of the design from the 43mm case with brushed and hardened steel to the subtly curved crystal and the comfortable strap combines in pure perfection.  I can’t find a single aesthetic element to criticize.  Likewise, the feel is impeccable, balancing a solid heft with luxurious comfort.  Finally, the feature set is more than you will find on much of the competition (even at double the price).

The famed Peking to Paris auto race of 1907 has gone down in history as a pioneering sports event which was undertaken in the spirit of adventure and exploration.  The event was inspired by a challenge printed in a Paris newspaper and the grueling 9,317 mile trek was attempted by only five racing teams.  The journey took participants through some of the world’s most extreme terrain in an age where many of the spectators had never even seen an automobile.  Today, the race remains as a symbol of man’s passionate spirit for innovation and challenge.

Like the feisty participants of that century-old race, Peter and Aletta Stas, have been inspired to create an independent watch brand in an age of increasing conglomeratization.  Though it may be difficult to identify a specific event which might properly symbolize a gauntlet being thrown down, it’s clear that the modern world of luxury timepiece manufacturing presents a major challenge to aspiring independent companies.  Over the course of close to three decades, the Stases have built up a truly formidable brand in Frederique Constant.  Along the way, they have proven that the conglomerate model of watch making is not the only viable one.  Innovative manufacturing techniques combined with an immaculate sense of design have provided Frederique Constant with an advantage over their lumbering and tired competition.

As a tribute to that original Peking to Paris racing event, Frederique Constant has created a limited edition chronograph watch which will appeal to racing enthusiasts and watch aficionados in equal measure.  This handsome timepiece features a sporty yet elegant design style.  The dial has a subtly 3-dimensional quality which is the result of the layered sub-dials, main dial and appliqué index markers.  The round stainless steel case has an appealingly voluptuous contour which transitions beautifully into a handsome leather strap.

The rear of the timepiece is an absolute joy to behold with a large sapphire exhibition case-back displaying the beautifully decorated automatic movement.  The rose gold rotor has a stylish “Peking to Paris” logo rendered in vibrant red and black paint.  The rear of the case also displays the limited edition numbering which is capped at just 1888 pieces.

In the same way that those bygone motorists tested the limits of the mechanics of travel, Frederique Constant challenges the structure of luxury timepiece manufacturing.  In the process, they have proven that it’s possible to create an exemplary timepiece without an exorbitant price-tag.  The Peking to Paris chronograph watch is a perfect embodiment of Frederique Constant’s unique blend of innovation, independence and reverence for the history of Swiss watch making.

One of the major draws for prestige level watch lines such as Patek, Vacheron and Breguet is that they manufacture their watch movements in-house.  In other words, rather than buying in a movement from another maker, these brands design and produce their own movements.  When comparing prestige lines against their lower-priced competition, this is an often championed element of the more expensive watch brands and for very good reason.

In-house movement manufacture goes far beyond the process of designing watch dials and cases requiring expertise in the design and construction of the mechanical marvels that run these timepieces.  It takes many years of hard work to design a watch movement and the majority of the European watch industry is perfectly happy to forgo this process in favor of buying in the movements which power their designs.

Frederique Constant has built a very strong reputation for integrating the time-honored style of the established prestige lines into affordable watch designs.  They have also been quietly building up a roster of timepieces which feature their own in-house designed and manufactured movements.  Rather than choosing to cut corners in the production process to achieve a lower price-point, Frederique Constant forgoes the type of advertising budgets that are common to their big-name competition.  This allows the brand to produce superlative watch designs for shockingly affordable prices.

With the release of the new Classics Manufacture watch, Frederique Constant is officially throwing down the gauntlet in a challenge to the prestige lines.  This new piece features all the classic elements of an heirloom quality timepiece, including an in-house designed and manufactured movement, while carrying a price tag of just $2,250!

No longer can prestige watch brands rest comfortably thinking that the ace in their hand is the exclusivity of their in-house manufacture.  Frederique Constant has proven to be a truly unique brand over the last 20 plus years, not only for their keen eye for classic design, but also for their innovative manufacturing and tenacious independence.  If you’re in the market for an heirloom quality timepiece with classic Swiss style, don’t make the mistake of passing over this incredible brand!

The Ball Watch Company is an unabashedly modern watch manufacturer which parlays a rich history into a defiantly successful independent brand.  This is not to say that Ball chooses to completely eschew trends, rather that their indelible design stamp is incorporated into each of their watches.  From bold tritium displays to in-house designed details like their patented crown-protection system, Ball watches have a flair that is unmistakable yet classy.

The Engineer Master II collection from Ball is largely populated by bold modern looking designs such as the Diver series, the Aviator series and the DLC.  However, there is one design from this collection which dares to be more retro than the rest of its brethren.  The Engineer Master II Officer is a gloriously handsome watch which pays homage to Ball’s history as a manufacturer of Railroad Standard pocket watches.

Long before Ball watches were lighting up dark spaces with colorful tritium, the brand was producing essential equipment for train conductors across the United States.  In fact, Ball founder Webb C. Ball was instrumental in keeping our railroad system safe through the development and maintenance of sturdy and accurate timepieces.  The Engineer Master II Officer watch brings this history into a modern context with several nods to Ball’s past designs.

While most of the current Ball watch offerings feature self-winding automatic movements, the Officer watch is powered by an ETA 6498-1 manual winding movement (which provides a satisfying and audible vintage “ticking” sound when running).  The case as well is uncommon for Ball’s current collection being 46mm in diameter as opposed to the more conservative 40mm size which is often used throughout their catalog.  A smooth functioning “Hunter” case-back protects the rear sapphire crystal which in turn allows a wonderful view of the watch’s internal mechanics. Finally, the dial sports an authentically vintage façade drawn from Ball railroad standard pocket watches of yesteryear.

As with all Ball watch designs, the Officer does incorporate a tritium light display.  However, where other Ball timepieces wear their tritium like a Technicolor light show, the Officer’s tritium display is discreet and seamlessly integrated into the vintage appearance while still providing strong reference in darkness.  A critical watch aficionado will appreciate the designer’s attention to detail in incorporating modern functionality and features into a very reverent period inspired design.

The Ball Engineer Master II Officer watch is a wonderful timepiece which is practical and functional for everyday wear.  All of the various design elements of this watch combine to create a piece that transcends pure function and results in a simple and classic work of horological art.  Whether you’re looking for your first or your tenth timepiece, keep this one on your short list for consideration, especially if you appreciate the unique American heritage of the Ball watch brand.

The Ball Watch Company always manages to come up with impressive tritium light displays on their watches.  Whether it’s something discreet and functional as seen on the Cleveland Express designs, or something more explosive like the Spacemaster X-Lume dial, Ball’s usage of tritium is both functional and beautiful.  With the release of the new Fireman Night Train II watch (Reference #NM2092C-P-BK), Ball has hit another home run with their tritium display.

The watch is incredibly well designed with a comfortable 45mm DLC coated steel case and a wonderful new rubber strap.  The dial is elegantly laid out with a matte black finish adorned with double orange tritium markers for each 5 minute increment and single green tritium tubes for each individual minute marker.  The hours, minutes and seconds hands each have a yellow tritium tube.  The overall effect is a dial that is supremely readable and in dark light situations, the tritium display is absolutely mesmerizing.

I wouldn’t describe the tritium as being “over-the-top”, but it definitely goes beyond purely functional into a realm of artistic defiance.  I think this new version of the Night Train is a definite improvement over the previous model with a cleaner look and a more bombastic light display.

It’s hard to pinpoint exactly what makes a great watch design, but when you hold this piece in your hand and then clasp it onto your wrist, it has that particular conglomeration of elements that makes for a truly jaw-dropping watch – a design that is comfortable, readable and just plain exciting to wear.

As a company, Ball has always been an innovator with a desire to forge an identity that is unique in their industry. This philosophy has enabled them to develop one of the most distinctive collections available. From their colorful tritium displays to in-house designed elements like their crown protection system, Ball watches offer a host of features which you will not find from any other Swiss watch manufacturer.

One of the most intriguing designs Ball has come up with is their TMT feature. The TMT watch designs integrate the world’s first mechanical thermometer which gauges temperature from -35 degrees Celsius to 45 degrees Celsius. A spiral bimetallic thermometer allows this design to measure temperature with far more accuracy than temperature modules used in past watches.

Implementation of this system presented Ball with a variety of technical challenges. Precise sizing of 5.1mm for the module required a variety of modification be made to the standard mechanical movement including milling the main plate and bridge. Along with these modifications, the movement also has to endure rigorous shock tests to ensure proper readout and shock resistance.

The TMT module has been integrated into several of Ball’s watch collections including the Engineer Hydrocarbon, Trainmaster and Engineer II Diver. These designs vary in style from sporty to classic providing a range of options for interested watch collectors. Each of the TMT models released so far has been produced in a limited edition adding to the novelty.